I wanted to let everyone know that I’ve been adding new video tutorials the last few weeks. About every day to every other day, I’m adding new knit super fast stitch refreshers and I’ve started adding Knit and Crochet Stitch Pattern Tutorials.
You can find all of the new videos under the “Free Patterns” and “Tutorials” headers above. Or head over to my Youtube Channel and subscribe and click the bell to get notified every time a new video is posted.
Up next, I’ll be recording tons of free little crochet applique videos. Fun little projects you can use in a variety of ways. Don’t miss out, subscribe today!
Scroll to the bottom of the post to watch a video on this technique.
If you’ve ever worked any project in any stitch other than single crochet, you’ll know what gaps I’m talking about.
When you start each new row of a crochet project, you will perform a “turning chain”.
For example, if your project is in double crochet, the normal turning chain will be a chain 3. You make this turning chain so your row will have the proper starting height it needs to keep the entire row even. If you leave it out and just start double crocheting, your first stitch will be squashed down and not look the same as the rest.
However, that chain 3 isn’t actually worked into the first stitch, or any stitch for that matter. Instead, it sits just to the right of your first stitch. Then as normal crochet goes, you make your first double crochet in the stitch after (the 2nd stitch of the row) and you end up with this gap that results from the distance of the chain 3 to your first stitch.
One way some people eliminate this gap is to not count the chain 3 as your first stitch. and then go ahead and make the chain 3
They will CH 3 and double crochet in the first stitch of the row. But again, the result is not great. Now you get a bump every other row from the chain 3 being forced to stick out from the stitch that was made in the first stitch space.
There is a fix for both of these problems. This technique can be substituted whenever you want and for any stitch you want. The result will be a nice flat edge project with no gaps.
This technique can be substituted whenever you want and for any stitch you want (above a single crochet). The result will be a nice flat edge project with no gaps.
This technique is super simple and is the same for any stitch you use it for.
All you will simply do instead of making your normal turning chain, is make a super extended single chain. Let me show you.
Your first step in this technique is to take the loop on your hook and pull it out to the height of the stitch you are making. Don’t worry if it’s not the exact same height, somewhere in the ballpark will be good enough.
But, it is better to make it a little shorter than taller than the stitch you are making. This will keep it more hidden and less likely to stick out.
Next, secure this long loop by making a chain stitch at the top.
Now you have a skinny “turning chain” that will sit right next to the double crochet you will make in the first stitch.
Whether the project says that the turning chain counts as a stitch or not, when using this technique, you will make the skinny turning chain and a stitch in the first stitch you come to. That means you don’t count the skinny turning chain as a stitch. In other words, it will be ignored when counting stitches.
Now your project will have nice edges and no gaps!
Check out the video to see the technique in action.
The simple answer is hook manufacturers have different US letter (as in the United States, Europe and other parts of the world go by the metric measurement) designations for some of their hooks.
It’s hard to find out how and when this started, but my theory is that because we’ve never adopted the metric system here in the US, the manufacturers came up with the US letters to help us out back in the day.
Why Can’t I Just Get The Same Letter Hook As The Pattern Calls For?
Because it could affect your gauge.
For example, the 4mm could be labelled as either a US-F or a US-G, and a 10mm is either a US-N or US-P. And the reverse is true, a US-N could be a 9mm or a 10mm hook depending on the manufacturer.
If the pattern only gives the US letter hook size, you could potentially be off by one whole mm, which will greatly change your gauge (check out my video below to see more on gauge and hook size).
What Should I Do If The Pattern Only Lists The US Letter Size For The Hook?
Start with that hook, only a couple of hooks have the different mm size, most are the same. My favorite hooks:
The Clover Soft Touch have both letters printed on their hooks. Try to make gauge and go from there (again, see my video down below if you need help with gauge).
So Which Letter Should I Choose if A Pattern Only Has The mm Size Listed?
And the simple answer for that is: don’t worry about letter size. If you have a pattern calling for a hook that comes in multiple letters, stick with the mm size. That is the actual measurement of the hook head and not just the letter the company that made it decided to name it.
You will be much closer to what the designer used when making gauge when you first try to make gauge yourself.
I forgot how much I love this stitch and I need to use it more often.
The broomstick lace stitch is a very unique crochet stitch. It’s called broomstick because it’s thought in the old days, actual broomsticks were used to make the loops of this stitch.
The video tutorial below will show you how to work the loops onto your “stick” (which in my case, is a knitting needle) and how to work them back off. I also go into how to change up the loop count when following a pattern.
I will be adding a free pattern workshop very soon for a whole project out of broomstick so if you’ve never tried it, now is the time to get familiar with it.
Be sure to subscribe to the blog if you want notice as soon as the project is added.
Also here is a link if you like the knitting needle I’m using for the stitch and want to pick one up since this is what I will be using for the free project coming up.