Knit Gauge Mistakes You’re Making ~ What To Do Instead

Accurately measuring gauge is crucial in knitting projects, as it ensures your finished piece will have the right fit and desired look. However, many knitters make common mistakes when checking their gauge, leading to frustration and potentially wasted time and yarn. Read on to learn about the most frequent gauge mistakes and what to do instead. You can also just skip to the bottom to watch a video on these mistakes and how to fix them.

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Mistake #1: Making your gauge swatch too small

It’s important to make your gauge swatch large enough to get a true feel for the yarn and how the pattern stitch will behave as you work. A swatch that’s too small may not provide an accurate representation of your gauge. Ideally, your swatch should be at least 6 inches (15 cm) square, or large enough to include at least 4 inches (10 cm) of your stitch pattern repeated. This allows you to measure the gauge in the middle of the swatch, where the stitches are most consistent and not as affected by the edges.

Mistake #2: Not knitting in the pattern stitch

Knitting your gauge swatch in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) may not give you an accurate gauge for your pattern. Different stitch patterns can affect the gauge, so it’s essential to knit your swatch using the same stitch pattern as your project. For instance, cables and lace patterns can make the fabric denser or more open, respectively, which will impact the gauge. Even simple patterns like ribbing or seed stitch can alter the gauge compared to stockinette. Good knitting patterns will tell you what pattern was used to make gauge. Normally, it will say something to the effect of:

Gauge: 4″ = 32 STS x 16 rows in pattern

or

Gauge: 4″ = 32 STS x 16 row in st st

When you see “in pattern” listed for gauge, it means the gauge measurement was taken while knitting in the actual stitch pattern used for the project, rather than just stockinette stitch (abbreviated as “st st”). As a pattern designer, I always try to list how the gauge was made when it is not obvious. Swatching in stockinette alone may not represent the true fabric qualities, especially when working with variegated or hand-painted yarns. The way the colors pool and blend can look drastically different in a textured or cabled pattern versus a plain stockinette. Taking gauge in pattern ensures you will love the final fabric and finished look before committing significant time to the full project.

Mistake #3: Using the wrong border stitch

Many knitters are told to use a garter stitch border (knit on both sides) to prevent their swatch from curling when swatching in certain stitch patterns, but this can be problematic. A garter stitch pattern is denser than other stitch patterns, which can affect your gauge measurements. Usually, your swatch will end up measuring smaller than your actual project because the garter stitch will pull your stitches closer together.

Instead, try using a moss stitch border, which alternates knit and purl stitches, or any other balanced knit stitch pattern (learn more about why stitches do what they do and why your fabric curls without my other tutorial about knit stitches here). These balanced stitches keep the swatch consistent and won’t affect the size of your stitches the way garter stitch does. Conversely, you can also just make your swatch extra large to account for any curling you have. This will ensure you have a large enough area to accurately measure the gauge.

Mistake #4: Not blocking your swatch

Blocking your swatch is crucial, especially for projects that will be laundered or worn. Failing to block your swatch means you won’t get an accurate representation of how the gauge will change once the finished object is used. Some fibers, like wool, can bloom and relax after blocking, while others, like cotton, may shrink slightly. Block your swatch in the same way you plan to block your finished project, such as soaking and laying flat to dry, or hanging it with a little weight to see how the gauge will change.

Proper blocking not only allows you to see the true post-blocked gauge, but it also gives you a preview of how the finished fabric will look and behave. Blocking can enhance stitch definition, even out tension inconsistencies, and reveal the full bloom and drape of the yarn. This is especially important for lace or cable patterns, where blocked swatches will show you how the intricate stitch work will open up and the overall fabric will hang. Taking the time to block your swatch is a small investment that pays big dividends by ensuring your finished project will have the intended size, drape, and polished look you envisioned when you started knitting.

Mistake #5: Pinning your swatch to measure gauge.

Pinning your swatch to measure gauge can distort the stitches, giving you an inaccurate measurement. The pins can pull the stitches in or out, affecting the row and stitch gauge. Instead, let your swatch rest unpinned when measuring the gauge. Lay it flat and smooth it out gently before measuring the stitches and rows over a 4-inch (10 cm) area in the center of the swatch.

Tips for Getting the Right Gauge When You Are So Close

There are also some very subtle changes you can make in case you are close to gauge, but not quite there.

Change your needle size

If your gauge is too tight or too loose, try switching to a different needle size. Going up to a larger needle will create a looser, more open fabric with fewer stitches per inch. Conversely, a smaller needle means the stitches will be more compacted, resulting in a tighter, denser gauge. But don’t increase or decrease the needle size by more than one size at a time. Make incremental adjustments and re-swatch until you achieve the pattern’s recommended gauge.

Try a different needle material

The material of your knitting needles can also affect the gauge. If you find yourself very close to gauge, but changing the size of the needles isn’t working, instead, try changing the material of the needle. Yes, different materials can produce different gauges. Wooden needles tend to create a tighter gauge because the yarn grips the needle better, while metal needles like stainless steel can produce a looser gauge since the yarn slides more easily. Plastic needles often fall somewhere in between. Experiment with different needle materials to see how your gauge changes from wood, to stainless steel, to plastic. You might be surprised at the difference!

Remember, achieving the correct gauge is essential for a successful knitting project where size matters. Don’t be afraid to knit multiple gauge swatches and make adjustments until you get it right. You will be very happy you did.

Video Tutorial

Do you have any good gauge tricks or can think of another mistake you’ve seen made? Sound off below and share what worked for you to fix that mistake. Happy knitting!

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